The Legendary Pizza Trio - Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana, Sally's Apizza, and Modern Apizza
New Haven is renowned for many things and, among them, its pizza holds a special place in the hearts and taste buds of locals and visitors alike. The city boasts a rich pizza culture, with three iconic establishments that have become culinary landmarks: Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana, Sally's Apizza, and Modern Apizza. Each of these pizzerias brings its unique flavor and history to the table, making the Elm City a destination for pizza enthusiasts.
So let's go Nutmegging: Pepe's, Sally's and Modern!
Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana:
Established in 1925 by Frank Pepe, this pizzeria is often credited with introducing Neapolitan-style pizza to the United States. Located one block from beautiful Wooster Square, Pepe's has maintained its original coal-fired brick oven, imparting a distinctive charred crust to its pies. The white clam pizza, topped with fresh clams, garlic, olive oil, oregano, and grated cheese, is an iconic dish that has become a symbol of Pepe's culinary excellence. The simplicity of their ingredients and dedication to tradition has earned Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana a spot among the nation's best pizzerias.
Pepe's, 157 Wooster Street,203.865.5762, https://pepespizzeria.com/
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Sally's Apizza
Sally's Apizza, another Wooster Street staple, opened its doors in 1938. Founded by Salvatore "Sally" Consiglio, Sally's is becoming a big business, with locations opening throughout Connecticut and Massachusetts. The original New Haven location still has the feeling of a family-owned establishment and continues using the original Sally recipes and techniques. The pizza at Sally's is distinguished by its thin crust and high-quality ingredients. Their classic tomato pie, with a savory sauce and a sprinkle of Pecorino Romano cheese, is a local favorite. The no-frills ambiance and commitment to preserving the original recipes contribute to Sally's enduring charm and popularity. And talk about popular: Sally's was Frank Sinatra's favorite New Haven destination. When Vice President Kamala Harris was in New Haven to deliver a speech, she ordered pies from Sally's for her entourage and Secret Service detail. During the early days of the Doonesbury comic strip Mike Doonesbury, Zonker, B.D. and the gang hung out at Sally's. Now that's pedigree!
Sally's, 237 Wooster Street, 203.624.5271,
https://sallysapizza.com/locations/new-haven/
Modern Apizza (and, for what it’s worth, David Mayhew’s personal favorite!):
Not far from its historic counterparts, Modern Apizza on State Street offers a more contemporary take on the New Haven pizza scene. Established in 1934, Modern Apizza blends tradition with innovation. Their thin-crust pies are known for their generous toppings and a wide array of flavor combinations. The Italian Bomb, featuring bacon, sausage, pepperoni, mushroom, onion, pepper, and garlic, is a testament to their commitment to bold and diverse flavors. Modern Apizza's dedication to quality and creativity has earned it a devoted following, making it a must-visit for those seeking a modern twist on the classic New Haven slice.
Modern, 874 State Street, 203.776.5306, https://modernapizza.com/
APIZZA? HUH? WHY NOT JUST PIZZA?
First of all, it must be pronounced properly. Ah-beets. Pronounce it any other way and people will know you're from somewhere else. Apizza is a decendant of Neapolitan pizza, thin-crust and traditionally baked in a coal-fired oven. The coal gives the crust a smoky flavor and the high heat gives the bottom of the crust a coating of soot. Don't you dare call it burned. You'll be banished. It's charred, not burned. The charred crust enhances the flavor. One more clue: if you want mozzarella on the pie you ask for "mootz." These are New Haven pizza rules.
New Haven's pizza culture is a rich tapestry woven with the history and flavors of Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana, Sally's Apizza, and Modern Apizza. Whether you savor the authenticity of Pepe's, the timeless recipes of Sally's, or the modern interpretations of Modern Apizza, one thing is certain – a visit to these pizzerias is not just a meal; it's an experience that pays homage to the culinary heritage America's pizza capital (yes, pizza capital…my humble opinion).
CONGRESSIONAL RECORD
Connecticut is the pizza capitol of America! Don't take my word for it...this is according to the Congressional Record in May 2024. So there, New York City!
Contribute to the nutmeggery! Do you have a favorite pizza joint aside from the big three in New Haven? Share it with me: dmayhew@hpearce.com.