But in the fall? Oh, that’s when the magic really shows
itself. Step off the ferry and suddenly you’re in another world — quieter,
sunnier, and full of that cozy New England charm you just can’t fake.
Getting There
The Block Island Express ferry from New London is part of
the adventure. It’s a fast ride — just about an hour — and I recommend snagging
a seat on deck (wear sunscreen). Watching the Connecticut shoreline slip away,
gulls chasing along behind, and that glittering stretch of open ocean ahead — it’s
a mood-lifter all on its own. Everyone on board is buzzing with excitement, and
you can feel it in the air. Tip: grab tickets ahead at blockislandferry.com.
First Impressions: Old Harbor
The ferry drops you right into the heart of Old Harbor, the
island’s little main village. Picture wooden storefronts, weathered inns,
seafood shacks, and ice cream parlors all clustered around the docks. It’s got
that nostalgic seaside-town feel, the kind that makes you want to slow down,
stroll, and maybe eat ice cream before lunch just because you can. Bikes and
mopeds whiz by, porches are breezy, and the whole place hums with an easygoing
rhythm.
How to Explore
If you’re up for some fun, grab a moped the minute you step
off the boat. You’ll find rental shops right by the ferry landing, and in no
time you’ll be zipping down country roads with the wind in your hair. Block
Island is small — only about seven miles long — so a moped is the perfect way
to hit the highlights without breaking a sweat.
Not a moped person? No problem. Rent a bike and take it
slower. The island’s backroads are postcard-worthy, with stone walls, meadows,
and ocean peeking out around every turn. Prefer someone else to do the
navigating? Plenty of taxis hang out at the ferry dock, and many will even give
you a full island tour for a set price. I’m lucky enough to have great friends
who live part-time on the island, so I’m happily and lovingly chauffeured by
them. Other friends who visit regularly tell me they rent from blockislandmoped.com.
Don’t Miss These Spots
- Mohegan Bluffs: Towering cliffs overlooking the Atlantic, with wooden steps down to a tucked-away beach. The views alone are worth the climb back up.
- Southeast Lighthouse: A gorgeous red-brick lighthouse perched dramatically above the bluffs. Tour it if you can — it’s straight out of a postcard.
- North Lighthouse: At the island’s opposite end, you’ll walk through sandy dunes to find this historic beauty, surrounded by one of the most peaceful stretches of shoreline you’ll ever see.
Eating & Unwinding
Back in Old Harbor, food is half the fun. You can go classic
with a lobster roll on a sun-drenched deck or linger over fresh-caught fish at
a cozy sit-down spot. Ice cream and bakery treats? Don’t even think about
skipping them — they’re practically required.
When cocktail hour hits, head up the hill to one of the
grand old Victorian hotels, like the Atlantic House or the Spring House. Find
yourself an Adirondack chair, order something cold, and watch the ocean stretch
out in front of you. It’s the kind of moment that makes you want to stay
forever. Tip: have a sweater or a hoodie
— the ocean breezes can be brisk!
The Island’s Vibe
What I love most about Block Island in autumn isn’t just the
scenery (though, wow!). It’s the atmosphere. Everyone seems friendlier here.
People smile, wave, stop to chat. Nobody’s rushing. It’s like stepping into a
place that remembers how to slow down and invites you to do the same.
Heading Home
Catching the evening ferry back feels a little bittersweet. You watch the island get smaller, the sun sinking low, and you carry that salt air and slow rhythm back with you. Block Island may be just an hour away but trust me — you’ll come home feeling like you’ve traveled much, much farther.
Photos © Rick Rothwell